The ice falls "Entrelor" and "Sogno Realizzato" are just ten minutes away from the "Bouque Georgeoline" apartments in the hamlet of Chaudanne. The ice falls "Saint Etienne," "Jack, Go Left!!," and "Quaranta" can be reached in about half an hour from both the Chaudanne and Thumel hamlets. All of them offer thrilling challenges for mountaineering enthusiasts, inviting climbers to test their skills on breathtaking vertical walls in a mountainous environment.
The summit of the Entrelor Icefall is located at an altitude of approximately 1850 meters and is a ice formation about 100 meters high. This icefall features three distinct climbing pitches, with several possible routes to tackle it. Its exposure faces Northwest. The first pitch (L1) is considered relatively easy, but it may have some irregular ice formations. The belay for the first pitch is located on an ice wall to the right of the candle. The second pitch (L2) is more challenging, featuring a short vertical, detached section followed by a cigar-shaped ice stretch, and finally an ice slab leading to the top. The belay for the second pitch is located at a tree. It’s important to note that along the Entrelor Icefall there are no intermediate belay stations, but you can rappel from the tree at the top or descend on foot along a trail.
“Realized Dream” is an interesting variation located to the right of the Entrelor Icefall. This route has an estimated ice difficulty of “II/4+”. The overall difficulty of the route is rated as “II,” which means it is a moderately challenging climb. The ice wall of “Sogno Realizzato” is characterized by a right-hand candle, which is the main challenge of the route. The difficulty rating “II/4+” implies a good technique in ice climbing and considerable physical endurance. Climbing “Sogno Realizzato” offers a more technical experience compared to the Entrelor Icefall and requires a good mastery of ice climbing techniques.
This icefall is located in an area that offers an interesting challenge to climbers. It is important to note that there are no pre-installed anchors, except for a blade piton to protect the M6 grade passage on the first pitch. The recommended gear includes standard ice climbing equipment and a set of cams from #0.3 to #2 C4 BD. The overall difficulty of this icefall is rated as “II/4 M6,” indicating it has challenging sections involving both ice and mixed climbing.
The descent is done using anchors such as Abalakov threads or trees.
The waterfall was opened by Matteo Giglio and C on December 26, 2014.
The difficulty of the route is rated as “II/4 M5,” indicating some challenging sections on ice and mixed terrain. The recommended gear includes a set of cams from #0.3 to #2 C4 BD, 3-4 standard ice screws, 2-3 short ice screws, and slings.
The line of this icefall remains about a hundred meters to the right of the Saint Etienne line.
The climb is characterized by a single pitch that includes an athletic passage between rock and ice at the beginning, followed by a beautifully sculpted wall of fine ice. The descent is made by double roping from the tree above the overhang in the center of the wall.
This icefall was first climbed by E. Marlier, E. Martis, P. Favre, and G. Mettel on January 18, 2015.
This icefall is located in an area that offers an interesting climbing opportunity. The overall difficulty of the route is rated as “II/4 M5,” indicating it has challenging sections involving both ice and mixed climbing. There are no pre-installed anchors along the waterfall, except for a red cord around a large tree on the hydrographic left bank, which can be used for rappelling down with double ropes. The recommended gear for this icefall includes standard ice climbing equipment and a set of cams from #0.3 to #2 C4 BD.
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